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When it comes to all things filtered, brewed and pulled, Subiaco wouldn’t necessarily be your first port of call but Rokeby Road could become a go-to for the caffeine deficient.
From the floor-to-ceiling comic book mural depicting Bettie Page astride Iron Man (or is it the Rocketeer?) to the sheer volume of coffee brewing equipment, Architects and Heroes is a place where you’re free to geek out at will. Speak to owner Ron Ngo and he’s happy to explain the filter methods that are in play here.
While for many, espresso or something with a shot is standard, the filter is the star here thanks to Ron. The flight ($12) offers up three different varietals and brewing methods on a custom board. Excessive for some, it’s perfect for sharing and a good opportunity to taste the work of the Steampunk. A steam siphon that’s one of the first in Australia, it’s every bit as cool as it sounds.
Tea gets the same thoughtful treatment with a menu that eschews the standard English Breakfast Tea, with seasonal choices and a rounded regional curation.
Food stretches from all-day toasties to proper plates (8.30am-2.30pm). Elmar’s Kransky, an institution in its own right, is teamed with mushrooms, caramelised onions and a choice of eggs on toast ($23). In itself this would be enough but the jamon, rosemary and parmesan top off the dish with gusto. New Norcia brioche French toast ($19) with red apple and rhubarb compote, honeycomb parfait and vanilla labne is a textural hit. While the sweeter option, it has sour and savoury notes. There’s a few cheffy pretentions with zig zag drizzles of glaze, but that’s easily forgiven.
Architects and Heroes offers solid proof that coffee in Perth is still on a roll.