What’s the deal? For a thoroughly indulgent night out in an oddball location, try here. Tucked away in the usually staid Bourse area, and marked out only by its trippy Robert Crumb-style logo, Montezuma serves up excellent small plates and first-rate natural wines. And the soundtrack is impeccable. Like In Sheep’s Clothing in LA and Brilliant Corners in London, this ‘hi-fi bar’ prides itself on the quality of its immersive Klipsch sound system.
What should I drink? There are lots of refined obscurities here. We liked the new-to-us Olga des Grottes and Julie Balagny beaujolais.